B. Moloch / Heathman Bakery and Pub

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A perfect place for a Sunday brunch in downtown Portland, Oregon is B. Moloch Heathman Bakery and Pub, "A Northwest Bistro". Their very accommodating hours of 7 AM to 11 PM are in sharp contrast to other downtown establishments serving quality beer. At $7 per pitcher, the 14 taps provide enough variety to find the right beverage to complement the hearty-sized meals served. A wall chart lists the dozen "wines by the glass" available. Breakfast run from 7 to 11AM and the offerings include fresh baked goods in addition to creative dishes featuring eggs, spiced potatoes, and salmon. Fresh Italian coffee is also available to compliment the meal if, for some reason, draft beer doesn't fit.

The Hefeweizen was cream-colored and opaque yet light-bodied and smooth. The Sommerbräu appeared golden in color, well carbonated and had a blend of malty and tart flavors, a mild caramel was also noticeable. The Weizen was a light gold color, well carbonated, with a light head it was very clear, light-bodied and refreshing. I found the Alt to have a dry malty flavor while the Bock was golden, malty and had a coarse hoppy flavor. The Rauchbier was ruby-red in color and exuded a malty, mildly smoky flavor. The Ur-Alt was a dark gold color with nice hops accompanying the dry malty flavor and crisp finish.

The great food, draft beers and relaxed atmosphere make this restaurant feel like a Brewpub. In fact you can sit at the bar and look through a glass wall and see the brewhouse of the actual microbrewery next door. Stake out a claim at the outdoor sidewalk tables and enjoy craft beer in a truly civilized setting. Inside the split-level large room features concrete ceilings with hanging fans and banners of colorful salmon. Three dozen light wood tables and booths stand in the "dining" area while another dozen lie near the lower-level small bar. Behind the bar and through the glass wall, the brewhouse of the Widmer Brewing Company stands visible. Overall, the full-story windows offer lots of light for the French language paintings displaying caricatures attributed to the original French artist who used the nom de plume "B. Moloch". An authentic brick oven operates all day and when needed, a tiny stage area is provided atop the walk-in cooler at the end of the bar. One television faces the bar area and T-Shirts are prominently displayed. Overall, the interior seems a model in space efficiency.

B. Moloch Bakery and Pub
901 SW Salmon
Portland, Oregon 97205

Reviewed by Tom Ciccateri - July, 1993 & Updated July, 1996

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