HOMEBREW Digest #1926		             Wed 03 January 1996

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Slow Yeast (patricia hust)
  Chicago brew scene (tfields)
  Speed Boiler (SSLOFL)
  ... and Crabtree (Steve Alexander)
  RE: Chicago Water (Jay Weissler)
  1st Wort Hopping (George.Fix)
  sugar in beer (Jeff Frane)
  First Timer Questions (jcmas)
  Dark Mysteries of brewing..... ("Michael J. LeLaurin, IIS/BTC, 245-7880")
  Source for CaCl? Other Salts. (Steve Alexander)
  Re: glyceol question (Bird)
  yeast managment/YCKCo (Dan McConnell)
  Ah, The Digest (Gregory G. Graboski)
  RE:Wyeast 1056 problems ("Olson, Greger J - CIV/911-2")
  Rock Andy. (Russell Mast)
  Rogue's yeast and recipe ideas? ("mike spinelli")
  north dallas homebrew shops (Larry N. Lowe)
  Hunter AirStat or other suitable controller (Fritz Wilson)
  Laminar Flow Hood(Featured in Brewing Techniques May/June) (BixMeister)
  Digital Thermometers/Thermometer Rant (Kirk R Fleming)

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Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 08:20:26 -0600 (CST)
From: phust@unlinfo.unl.edu (patricia hust)
Subject: Slow Yeast

12/31/95 I brewed a batch of English Mild Brown using extract and a 
pound of various grains.  For the first time I used liquid yeast 
(Wyeast London ESB 1968).  It had a date of 12/20/95 on it and my 
local homebrew supply retailer said that since it was that fresh there
would be no need to make a starter for greater volume.  I just pitched
it direct at about 70F.  Well, much to my surprise there was 
absolutely no activity all of yeasterday!  I ignored Papazian's advice
and worried!  I did have a homebrew, however.  I could not contact the
retailer (New Year's Day), but I did make a frantic call to our local 
brew club president who told me I had not committed any major sins and
to give it another 12 hours and then if nothing was happening to call 
the retailer and make plans to re-pitch.  This morning my brown is 
finally starting to bubble away , but only about one bubble every 15 
seconds.  Should it have taken over 36 hours, and is my bubble rate 
fast enough?  Could my error, if there was one, have been insufficient
aeration?  I just splashed my cooled wort into the fermenter and then 
after pitching the yeast, I sloshed the fermenter for a minute or so. 
Sorry to have run on for this long, but I hate to repeat mistakes 
since I manage to come up with so many new ones.  Thanx for any 
replies.  Jim Hust (yes, I use my wife's account) 


Date: Tue, 02 Jan 96 09:41:39 EST
From: tfields@relay.com
Subject: Chicago brew scene

NOTE:  Chicago area posting.

I'll be in the Chicago (actually Oakbrook Terrace) area next week and would 
appreciate any brewing establishment recommendations.  Please reply to my 
compuserve address.
     "reeb!"     Tim Fields ... Fairfax, VA 


Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 09:16:00 -0600
From: SSLOFL@ccmail.monsanto.com
Subject: Speed Boiler

     I am currently experimenting with a NG hot water heater burner for a
     "speed boiler" in my basement.  I acquired an old hot water
     heater from my friend, and removed the element. The gas element comes
     off by unhooking a single fitting and sliding it out. I would assume
     that most brands of heaters would be the same way so one could replace
     the element if needed.  Just keep a crescent wrench in your vehicle
     and stop if you see an old heater on a curb!  The gas dryer heater
     element mentioned awhile back on the HBD was a good idea as well, but
     my friend didn't have one of those that I could tear apart!  Has
     anyone looked into this further or maybe even tried it?

     I am going to hook up the element in my basement under a range fume
     hood that is vented outside.  In the same room, I'm going to install a
     CO detector to be safe.  I am going to use an in-line valve to control
     the gas flow to the burner.  The only thing about this setup is that
     the burner will have to be supervised while in use.  Since I could not
     get the safety control to work, one must watch the flame to make sure
     it doesn't go out and fill the basement with gas fumes.  I will post
     my results later.

     I strongly suggest that anyone else experimenting with a gas burner in
     their home in any way other than it is originally intended should use
     a good fume hood and a CO detector.  A large purchased range hood
     or homemade one should work fine, but make sure it is vented outside!
     Cheap range hoods simply filter out particles of smoke and blow the
     air somewhere else in the house.  As for CO detectors, all will work
     but not all are practical for this use.  First alert and some others
     are excellent detectors, but they are not recommended in this case
     because everytime they are set off, they require a new $20.00
     cartridge.  This could get expensive at startup of a new idea.  I
     recommend the types that are resettable, so they can be used over and
     over without additional costs other than batteries.

     Please post any warnings, comments, or other any designs or ideas
     pertaining to gas burners on a future HBD or e-mail.  Is anyone else
     is using a modified burner from an old gas appliance to brew?




Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 10:18:48 -0500
From: Steve Alexander 
Subject: ... and Crabtree

Tracy Aquilla writes:
>Steve Alexander  says:
>>Re: a previous post -
>>Correction:  Tracy Aquilla correctly points out that the Crabtree
>>effect really refers to the tendency of yeast to ferment rather than
>>respire in the the presence of glucose and doesn't necessarily mean no
>>growth or reproduction, tho' several brewing sources suggest it.  I
>>think the important point is that with organisms like yeast with
>>multiple metabolic pathways, that rates for a particular metabolic
>>pathway have many dependencies.
>True, in fact, ALL organisms have multiple metabolic pathways (not just

Tho' many homofermentative organisms (e.g. some lacto bacilli) are
dependent on a single pathway for cell energetics.

>yeast) and rates of the various pathways DO depend on numerous parameters.
>However, the important point I was trying to make is that in the case of S.
>cerevisiae, respiration does not occur in the presence of glucose,
>regardless of oxygen concentration (see Antonie van Leeuwenhoek
>63(3-4):343-52, 1993, for a recent review). The reason I brought this up is
>that most homebrewing authors state or imply that respiration occurs for a
>brief period after pitching the yeast, which appears to be in direct
>disagreement with the scientific literature on this subject. If anyone's
>really interested in this stuff, I have started collecting some references
>and I'd be glad to share them and summarize my findings.
>Email me for details.
>    Tracy in Vermont
>    aquilla@salus.med.uvm.edu

Totally agree here.  I don't have the references under my nose at the
moment, but it appears that normal wort levels of glucose exceed the
level necessary for the crabtree effect (like 1%w/v and 0.4%w/v from
memory).  This implies that yeast ferment rather that respire
immediately after pitching.  Also catabolic repression of permease
and therefore no maltose consumption should take place immediately
after pitching!  Not the way it's pictured in many brewing books is it?



Date: Tue, 2 Jan 96 09:32:18 -0600
From: jay_weissler@il.us.swissbank.com (Jay Weissler)
Subject: RE: Chicago Water

Steve asks about Chicago water
> I recently moved to the Chicago Suburbs (Naperville). I've been  
told that I don't have to worry about water treatment. Where I live  
receives city water from Lake Michigan.

>Does anyone know if Chicago water needs to be treated for all grain  

The answer is sometimes yes, sometimes no. I live in Winnetka. Our  
water will differ slightly from other North Shore water districts and  
may differ from your's...but...

1) It is always high in chlorine...which I remove with a charcoal  

2) Depending on my grain bill, I sometimes find my mash pH too high  
after the acid rest. I will acidify in a way consistent with the  

3) Sometimes the sparge pH is too high so I acidify.

Chicago water is often great for brewing as is. When acidification is  
called for, the additions are usually slight. You might find in your  
brewery that you don't even need them. However, I would strongly  
recommend the de-clorinization and a pH meter or test papers.

Welcome to town.


Date: Tue, 2 Jan 96 09:39:47 -0600
From: George.Fix@utamat.uta.edu
Subject: 1st Wort Hopping 

Pat Maloney in HBD#1917 asks about 1st wort hopping.

This is an old German procedure where the "aroma hops" (traditionally
a third of the total) are added to the brew kettle just before it is 
filled. As far as I can tell this procedure disappeared many decades
ago, and for the better part of the 20th century it has been universally
accepted that beer aroma is best influenced by late kettle additions,
post-boil additions to hot wort (e.g., whirlpool hopping), and/or
cold side hopping during beer maturation.

Recent research in Germany (c.f., Brauwelt, 1995, Vol.4)) suggests that
this point of view may be overlooking some important effects. Using
gas chromatography they studied a series of brews where everything
was kept the same except for the point where the aroma hops were added.
The latter consisted of a third of the total and were German Tettnangers. 
The beer was a standard Pilsner (OE ~12 P [1.048] and IBUs ~40 mg/l).
In addition to the chromatographic study a professional taste panel was
employed to identify preferences. The following were the major

  (i) While a lot of hop oil constituents are lost during wort boiling
      a nontrivial fraction, at concentrations far higher than
      anticipated, become bound up with other wort constituents. They
      then underwent a series of complex and subtle reactions
      (mechanisms that would make those occurring in fermentation
      look like child's play!). This suggest that the main influence
      of the time of hop additions may be more on the character of
      the flavor induced than on its intensity. The striking differences
      in the chromatographs supports this view, as well as the well defined
      preferences of the taste panel that were reported.

  (ii) Whirlpool hopping got the lowest marks of all the procedures. This
       comes as no surprise for during the last few years I have developed
       a "gut feeling" that this procedure may be doing as much harm as good. 
       Interestingly, DeClerck anticipated these results. This was undoubtly
       behind his recommendation that late addition hops be pre-processed
       in boiling water to remove "undesirable constituents".

  (iii) Top marks were given the the brew using 1st wort hopping, and in
        fact the brewery which participated in this study has now switched
        from whirlpool hopping to 1st wort hopping. All of this comes
        as a complete surprise to me, and I still have more questions
        about the procedure than insights. (Just when think you have got a
        book written something like this comes along!). Nevertheless, 
        having heard about these results from friends nearly a year
        ago, I have evolved into something of a convert at least for 
        German Pilsners and exports. It can not be overemphasized that only 
        the finest aroma hops can be used in this procedure, a fact I
        found out the hard way!

George Fix


Date: Tue, 02 Jan 1996 08:11:06 -0800
From: jfrane@teleport.com (Jeff Frane)
Subject: sugar in beer

>From: "James Hojel" 

>2) A fuzzy fat bearded man gave me some books last week on Real Ale.  
>Reviewing the recipes, I noticed that the British are very fond of using 
>sugars.  The two primary types used are cane and inverted sugars.  My first 
>task is obtaining these sugars.  Does anyone know where one can purchase these 
>sugars in the USA and/or how to make them (inverted)?  Another question that 
>arose is what exactly do these sugars contributed to the beer.  Other than the 
>obvious alcohol, what do these sugars contribute as far as taste, body, and 
>aroma?  Is it possible to use 2-row and a low mash temp. to substitute using 
>sugar?  In conclusion, I'm trying to get a grip on brewing with sugars and how 
>to substitute for them while retaining the desired characteristics.

There was a faintly interesting article a couple of years ago in
Zymurgy that specifically dealt with sugars in brewing -- you might
want to look into that for a little detail.  Specifically, there's
a sidebar that explains how to invert sugar at home; you can buy
invert sugar at a candy supply store (or a place that provides supplies
for cake decorators).  Cane sugar is likely already in your house: in
the sugarbowl.  It just means sugar derived from cane rather than beets;
check your package for details.

In all probability, sugar became important to British brewing practice
because it was readily available and cheaper than malt (the British 
controlled the sugar trade for a loooong time).  There are instances
where sugar is irreplaceable (Belgian beers, for example), but
even the Brits make all-malt beer.  Best thing to do is try for
yourself and see what works.  Another good adjunct to use (better,
really, in some ways) is flaked maize, which is apparently very
popular in England these days.  Helps to boost alcohol without
making the beer too heavy.

Oh, BTW, the Zymurgy article was written by some guy named Frane.

- --Jeff Frane


Date: Tue, 02 Jan 96 10:59:46 CST
From: jcmas@searle.monsanto.com
Subject: First Timer Questions

I brewed my first batch of beer last Saturday, an all-malt amber 
from a kit. I have some questions Hope you can help.

1. When boiling, is it necessary to cover the boil??  I have 4 books 
   and only 1 of the book mentions covering the boil.

2. When transferring to the fermenter, should you use a strainer??
   I used a strainer and trapped about a cup of mud-like matter, maybe 
   the hops??

3. I pitched the yeast and after 4-5 hours I noticed occasional air bubbles
   in the air lock.  During the next 36 hours there was a constant stream 
   of air bubbles in the air lock, but after that it has subsided to almost
   nothing.  Could it be done??  Should I do anything, or just wait a bit??

Thanks for your help!




Date: Tue, 02 Jan 96 11:00:18 -0600
From: "Michael J. LeLaurin, IIS/BTC, 245-7880" 
Subject: Dark Mysteries of brewing.....

   I am an extract/specialty grains brewer (about 2 dozen batches)....
The last 2 or 3 batches of beer that I have brewed have turned out too
dark in  color. One was an American Brown Ale, but the other 2 were
not supposed to be dark. The Brown looked more like a real dark porter
or light stout.
  A little history...: I do full 5 gallon, 1 hour boils and chill via
a immersion chiller. Use Wyeast in almost all batches. My boiling pot
never has the appearance of scourching on the bottom. I use a Cajun
Cooker as  the heat source.
  Any help/ideas would be appreciated.


* Michael J. LeLaurin      |    oooooo   |I was told by my wife that *
* Integrated Interpretation|   oooooooo  |if I brew one more batch   *
* Shell EP Technology Co.  | /_|  oooooo |of beer she would leave me!*
* Phone (713)245-7880      |// |    ooo  |                           *
* FAX   (713)245-7581      |\\_|   oo |  |                           *
*                          | \_|     o|  | I'm going to miss her :-) *
*                          |   |______|  |                           *
*  e-mail:lelaurin   internet:lelaurin@shell.com     PROFS id mjl8   *


Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 12:37:29 -0500
From: Steve Alexander 
Subject: Source for CaCl? Other Salts.

Dave Houseman writes requesting a source for CaCl.  I'm
interested in this as well. 

On a related note. Ball Corp packages NaCl and hydrated lime
Ca(OH).wH2O for pickling uses.  The Sodium Cloride(table salt) and
Calcium Hydroxide don't contain iodine or anti-caking agents - so are
useful for brewing. The hydrated lime can be used for water
treatment, causing removal of carbonates, at the cost of raising the
pH. Hydrated lime requires some care in handling and use.

Steve Alexander


Date: 02 Jan 96 08:44 PDT

 I have been using a Champion juicer with a grain mill (designed for making 
flour, similiar to Corona--2 revolving steel plates with adjustable gap)to 
grind my grist.  The grind is OK but not great---fair anount of flour and the 
husks are mostly fragments, rather than whole.  So I would like to take some 
of Santa's largesse, and buy a grain mill.  Question---is it necessary/
desirable to be able to adjust the gap? How much variation is there in malted
barley, anyhow.  Do those of you with adjustable mills frequently make
adjustments?? Private postings, please, will summarize.
   I think someone owes js an apology---I sure hate to see these ad hominem
attacks on others.  We do not need this kind of flame, please think before
you post attacks on other HBD-ers.  I have been glad for js' postings, and 
the other manufacturers and business owners who have used this forum to help

    I asked earlier for some help with trub removal---the consensus was to
use a metal 'scrubby' on the racking cane, and one fellow used an intermediate
step---siphon to a carboy, pitch and let the trub settle for an hour or two, 
then rack off into the primary.  Most folks admit losing 2-3 quarts of wort
with the trub. A couple responders use the whirlpool method to concentrate the
trubs in the center of the kettle before racking off. 
 Some recommend adding cooled water in the primary to adjust to 5 gallons.

   I have used both immersion and counter flow chillers, and conclude that the
immersion chiller is preferable----MUCH easier to clean and being able to 
sanitize by putting it into the kettle for the last 10 minutes of the boil is 
very handy. Our well water is about 48 dF, and the immersion chiller will pull
the temp from 212 to 65 in about 10 minutes, with gentle agitation in the 
easymash kettle (lid on---cut little slots for the ends of the coil). But in 
years past, I stuck the 3 gallon kettle I started out with into a bathtub full
of cold water, and that worked fine for the extract beers I made.  There is
some intake of room air as the wort and air cools, but as long as you pitch
a nice healthy starter, you should have no problems.  Let's face it---good 
beer is easily made under much less sanitary conditions that most of us 

   days since last rain: 1     


Date: Tue, 2 Jan 96 11:21:10 MST
From: roberts@Rt66.com (Bird)
Subject: Re: glyceol question

>>>>> "CHOLLIAN-USER" == CHOLLIAN-USER   writes:

    CHOLLIAN-USER> amount, but I can't beleive that the book "The
    CHOLLIAN-USER> Complete Joy of Home Brewing" would be so wrong as
    CHOLLIAN-USER> to suggest something dangerous to one's health. Has
    CHOLLIAN-USER> anyone done this? Is glycerol safe to consume? And
    CHOLLIAN-USER> what is glycerol anyway? The amount I'd be using
    CHOLLIAN-USER> would be around two liquid ounces in a five gallon
    CHOLLIAN-USER> batch of beer.

Glycerol is basically a suger, and it is safe to eat. When I use
it to prepare my frozen yeast cultures, I use it in 10% by volume
amounts. Included below is my procedure, which has proven true for my last
12 batches.

- --Doug

- -- 
(A)bort, (R)etry, (G)et a beer?

Doug Roberts

- ---------------------------------------------------------------
My last 12 batches have been successfully started from pre-prepared 100 ml
allotments of propagated, frozen Wyeast 1968 (ESB) and Wyeast 1728
(Scottish) starters. I got the idea from Papazian's
"Joy...Homebrewing" where he devoted a single sentence to the concept
of freezing starters. Here's my procedure:

1. I smak a pack and pitch it when ready it into a liter of 1.020
unhopped wort, being extremely careful with sanitization: swab all
glass lips with Everclear and flame contact surfaces before all

2. When the starter is at high krausen, I take 100 ml glycerol (USP)
and heat it in the microwave til it's good & hot to kill off any
nasties (about 60 seconds for 100 ml). I let it cool to ~70F and add
it to the starter (swab, flame, don't breathe). I got the glycerol
from a local pharmacy, but I'm told you can get it lots of places.

3. I swirl the starter to thoroughly mix the glycerol & yeast, and
then pour out ten 100 ml allotments (swab, flame, don't breathe) which
I immediately stopper with sterilized (clorox) rubber stoppers. I
found some 100 ml pyrex sample bottles at an odds & ends-type store
that are ideal: they take a #2 rubber stopper perfectly. I push the
stopper in _tight_ because the starter is still active and will be
until frozen.

4. I cover the stopper & bottle top with foil to minimize air contact.

5. Freeze immediately in a _cold_ freezer (glycerol is an anti-freeze,

When I want to brew, I thaw one of the allotments three days before
and pitch it into a liter of 1.020 unhopped wort (swab, flame, don't
breathe). 2, 2 1/2 days later it's at high krausen & ready to pitch. 

The re-constituted starter wort has always smelled & tasted good, and
the beer has never had an off flavor, leading me to believe that the
glycerol does a pretty good job of keeping a sufficient number of
yeasties from having their cell walls burst during freezing. 

Works for me...


Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 13:50:04 -0500
From: danmcc@umich.edu (Dan McConnell)
Subject: yeast managment/YCKCo

I recently had the opportunity to evaluate the yeast culture from one of
our local BrewPubs (Grizzly Peak Brewing Co in Ann Arbor, MI).  A Peter
Austin pub, they have been open since July 1995, open ferment, use the
Ringwood yeast strain and produce very fine beers.  A good place to stop if
you are ever in the area.

I received the culture after 90+ generations and marveled at the purity.
This illustrates the effectiveness of a well run yeast management program
which involves continuous repitching of this top-cropping strain. The
brewer is well trained and really seems to know his job.  I intend to spend
some time learning his particular yeast management techniques over the next
few weeks which seem on the surface to be ordinary but may be worthy of
some extra attention.


For those that object to crass commercialism, please accept my apology and
page down now.

The Yeast Culture Kit Company is now on-line!  It's still in the tweaking
stages, far from complete, but functional and open for visitors.  Expect
that the address will soon sneak itself into a signature of some sort.
Special thanks to Pat (take me to your lager) Babcock for doing all of the



    "yes, I sat there and stared at my bottles of beer"--- Dave Draper


Date: Tue, 02 Jan 1996 10:39 -0500 (EST)
From: gregory_g._graboski@Merck.Com (Gregory G. Graboski)
Subject: Ah, The Digest

After catching up on the digest, I must agree with R. Everitt (HDB #1924). I 
continue to hope that the collective mind matures. (Apologies for the 


Date: Tue, 02 Jan 96 11:55:00 PST
From: "Olson, Greger J - CIV/911-2" 
Subject: RE:Wyeast 1056 problems

>>Date: 1 Jan 96 17:10:06 -0500
>>From: "Mark E. Perkins" 
>>Subject: Any recent Wyeast 1056 problems?
>>In mid-October, someone posted about problems with a packet of Wyeast 
>>The packet had a September production date.  Has anyone had any problems 
>>packets of more recent vintage?  On Fri (12/29), I smacked a packet w/
>>production date 11/15/95 (purchased Thanksgiving weekend), pitched it to a 
>>pt. starter on 12/31.  When I got ready to pitch the starter to my wort 
>>(1/1/96), the yeast starter smelled awful (more like bread than like beer,
>>if I had been making bread that smelled like that, I would have tossed 
>>For the record, I've used 1056 up to three months after production date w/ 
>>My questions:
>>1) any recent problems w/ 1056 that anyone can relate?
I just pitched (12/29) my first American style ale using 1056 (previous 
batches were English/Scottish).
I don't remember the date on the smack-pack.  Everything smelled fine, but 
the resulting fermentation, while steady, has lacked the volcanic blowoff 
I've always experienced.  Possibly
this is due to the temperature in my fermentation room (downstairs john - 
W.C. for you brits).
Currently around 65F.  Which brings up my question for the collective:

Is there a FAQ listing preferred temperature ranges for different yeast 
I recall Wyeast's smack-pack  only listing the temp range in which to allow 
the pack to swell.


Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 14:08:33 -0600
From: Russell Mast 
Subject: Rock Andy.

> From: "David Elm" 
> Subject: Re: Belgian Rock Candy (candi)

> 	I understand that candi sugar is sucrose that has been crystalized
> from a supersaturated solution.  It will be very pure, hard to find and
> expensive outside of Belgium.  It, and other sugars, are used in most Belgian
> style beers to raise the fermentables and is added to the wort late in the
> boil.  Have a look at "Belgian Ale" by Pierre Rajotte.

Someone spank me if I'm totally mistaken, but can't you just make your own?
When I was in grade school, we used to make rock candy once in awhile.  It
was pretty easy to find at candy stores around there, but that might be from
the heavy Dutch influence in W. Michigan.  

> 	Living in Toronto, Canada I gave up trying to locate candi sugar.
> Instead, I caramalize sucrose to a medium-dark brown colour and add it,
> while molten, to the boiling wort.

Sounds good for dark candi, but for light, hmm...  

Can anyone tell me a reason not to just make my own rock candy and toss that
in my beers?  Would this be better or worse than corn sugar?  Should I make
rock candi with corn sugar?  If I want to make dark candi sugar, do I carmelize
it before or after I crystallize it?

Happy New Year everyone, I hope this gets through before the end of the week.



Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 16:52:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: "mike spinelli" 
Subject: Rogue's yeast and recipe ideas?

Happy hoildays all !

I understand that Rogue uses the Pacman yeast in its ales.  If so, can we
homebrewers get this yeast from somewhere?  Or is there another commercial
strain that's comparable?

Also, I called Rogue to get a breakdown on what goes in their dry hopped
St. Rogue Red but they didn't give much more than what's listed on the

Have any of you tried to clone any of the Rogues and would care to share the

Mike in Cherry Hill NJ


Date: Tue, 2 Jan 96 16:02:49 CST
From: Larry N. Lowe 
Subject: north dallas homebrew shops


  i have a friend who has received a great christmas gift...a
 homebrewing outfit. he needs to know where he may find a homebrew 
 shop in Dallas...perferablly north dallas suburbs. since he now a 
 brother to the homebrewers, i thought someone could help him out.
 private e-mail to my address is fine. TIA
- --
from: Larry N. Lowe
      NOAA, National Weather Service
      Arkansas-Red Basin River Forecast Center
      10159 East 11th St,  Suite 300
      Tulsa, Oklahoma 74128-3050
      Off: (918)832-4109  FAX: (918)832-4101


Date: Tue, 02 Jan 1996 19:23:55
From: Fritz Wilson 
Subject: Hunter AirStat or other suitable controller

Anyone have a source for Hunter or other suitable (read easy) controller?
I see a freezer in my immediate future with my Xmas $$$

          (o) (o)
            ( )
|          Fritz          |


Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 20:54:30 -0500
From: BixMeister@aol.com
Subject: Laminar Flow Hood(Featured in Brewing Techniques May/June)

Need source for surplus high volume air mover.  In the May/June issue of
Brewing Techniques magazine a construction article for a laminar flow hood
was featured.  One of the principal parts mentioned was a 530 cfm fan.  The
fan was said to be carried by H&R(Herbach and Rademan) in their catalog(p/n
TM93BLR2485/C.  the fan is an EBM company fan p/n R2E220AA4423.  I was
informed by H&R that they no longer stock the  fan and won't be restocking.
 If anyone has some ideas or an extra fan please contact me
:BixMeister@aol.com.  Other surplus sources would be welcome also.


Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 19:34:14 -0700
From: flemingk@usa.net (Kirk R Fleming)
Subject: Digital Thermometers/Thermometer Rant

In Monday's HBD Marc Gaspard reported big fun with his DigiDial 300L
digital thermometer.  I have a 300LW, and the following comments:

My unit is about 4F off, although it seems to be pretty linear--digital
doesn't mean accurate or precise. In mashing, four degrees F is a mile IMO,
so I think you at least need to know what the error is.  

I recently compared two floating dairy-style mercury thermometers purchased
at the local brewer's supply shop.  They read from 6 to 10F apart.  Neither
of them is correct based on my reference thermometer (a 100-180F ASTM unit
supposedly guaranteed to be within 0.3F).

Second comment: the electronics for the DigiDial unit are housed in a plastic
clamshell that is not airtight.  While using mine in the challenging
environment of the mash tub a lot of condensate formed inside the housing, 
causing the unit to fail completely.  I was able to restore operation by
popping open the clamshell housing and gently drying it out with a hairdryer.

Question:  I have *very* ion-free water, and live at about 6200' asl.  Will
the temperature of an ice-water under these condx bath differ much from 0C?

KRF Colorado Springs

End of HOMEBREW Digest #1926, 01/03/96