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CAMRA picks best cider, perry

The Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) today announced the winners of its search for the best real cider and perry in the UK.

The winners are:

Cider: Hecks Kingston Black – Somerset

Perry: Seidr Dai – Cardiff

Gillian Williams, CAMRA’s Director of Cider and Perry campaigning said: “Commercial ciders are enjoying something of a boon at the moment thanks to lavish advertising, but it should not be forgotten that exceptionally high quality real cider is still being made all over the UK. Just squeeze the juice out of the fruit and leave to ferment naturally. At its best it is a wonderful drink allowing the true fruit flavour to come through to the full.

Visit CAMRA for complete results.

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And the light beer winner is . . .

In the name of public service, Channel 3 in Philadelphia compares light beers, enlisting beer columnist Don Russell to conduct a blind tasting with his neighbors.

Could they offer a solid consensus?

Our taste testers were pretty much evenly split, preferring the Miller, Heineken and Amstel Lite beers.

Only America’s number one selling beer, Bud Light failed to get a thumbs up.

Until somebody tells us the best light beer to drink we’ll have to stay with something heavier.

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Meet the hoppier Budweiser

The headline on the front page of the Wall Street Journal – “After Making Beer Ever Lighter, Anheuser Faces a New Palate” – nicely summarizes the story.

Alas, the link will work only if you are a subscriber, so you might want to look for today’s WSJ on the news stand.

Briefly, some of the revelations:

– From 1950 to 2004, the amount of malt used to brew a barrel of beer in the U.S. declined by nearly 27%, and the amount of hops in a barrel of beer declined by more than half. Part of that decrease is due to improvements in how brewers extract flavor from hops. Nonetheless, beer’s taste became steadily lighter.

– Over the past 20 years the IBU’s of most American-style lagers has declined from roughly 15-20 IBU’s to fewer than 10 today.

– Doug. Muhleman, A-B’s group vice president for brewing and technology, says the company didn’t set out to make the beers less bitter. He calls the change “creep,” the result of endlessly modifying the beer to allow for changes in ingredients, weather and consumer taste.

– In the early 1980s, August Busch III ordered that freshly brewed cans of Budweiser and Bud Light be cryogenically frozen, using technology typically employed in preserving human tissue. That means A-B employees can sit down and taste how Budweiser might have changed. For the story, Busch was able to taste cans from 1982, 1988, 1993, 1998 and 2003.

The sample cans demonstrate how “creep” works, the story explains. The difference in taste between two beers brewed five years apart is indistinguishable. Yet, the difference between the 1982 beer and the 2003 beer is distinct. “The bones are the same. It is the same structure,” Muhleman said. Overall, however, “the beers have gotten a little less bitter.”

Now, here’s the news:

“In a little-noticed move Anheuser is loath to discuss, the brewer recently added more hops to its beer.”

From the Journal:

Anheuser didn’t talk publicly about it, but the brewer also recently made changes in its brewing process to correct for over-lightening. In August 2003, Mr. Busch met with hops growers in Oregon and Washington and told them that Anheuser was planning to increase the proportion of hops used in its beers, according to several people who were there.

Mr. Busch confirms the account, saying in a written statement: “I told the growers of our desire to use more hops in our brewing for the purpose of delivering more amplitude and hop flavor in Budweiser.”

How abut that?

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Weekly Therapy: The people’s choice

Working for the Anheuser-Busch breweries in Columbus, Ohio, and Merrimack, N.H., has been a little more fun recently.

Why? Burnin’ Helles, Leaf Peeper Pils and Old Eyepopper for starters.

The idea to have a contest that lets customers pick what might on tap in their local pub is hardly new, and the idea for this one might have come from the marketing department but A-B’s www.originalbeers.com promotion has involved brewery employees just as much any similar program would at a small-batch brewery.

This is where things stand now: Residents in New England and Ohio can log onto www.originalbeers.com to cast their vote for a beer they figure they want to drink.

In Ohio the choices include: Burnin’ Helles, Racer Snake Red and Old Eyepopper. In New England they are: Devil’s Hop Yard IPA, Stone Face Ale and Leaf Peeper Pils. The names and beer styles were created by local employees at the Columbus breweries. Voting continues through Sunday, the winning beers will be brewed at the Columbus and Merrimack breweries, and then go on tap in their respective regions June 26.

Most voters will probably make their decision based only on the online descriptions, but batches of each of the beers were brewed in A-B’s St. Louis pilot brewery and are available for sampling.

At Merrimack, more than 500 brewery employees and local distributors contributed ideas, which included suggesting a beer style and a beer name. Then a committee of 12, chosen from different departments such as accounting or packaging, picked the three beers and formulated recipes.

“This was a fun project,” said assistant brewmaster Mitch Steele. “We put up a spread sheet, bounced around ideas about hops, hopping schedules, malt, and so on.”

All three choices in New England are ales. “We’ve wanted to brew more ales out of Merrimack,” Steele said. One simple reason is that Bare Knuckle Stout is brewed in Merrimack, and it’s easier to keep yeast healthy when it is put to work regularly.

Merrimack was a logical choice because of the strong craft brewing scene in the Northeast and because the brewery can produce smaller batch sizes (400 barrels versus 1,000 and more at most A-B breweries). “I think part of it was the success of the seasonal beers (released beginning last fall). The idea of doing some regional beers has been around for a while,” Steele said.

Steele formerly worked in the specialty beer group, formulating recipes that were sold under the Michelob Specialty and A-B American Originals brands. Included were many recipes that never reached the public (although they made the company picnic more fun).

“We tried to get an IPA out there,” Steele said, thinking back to 1997. Now New England customers can vote for Devil’s Hopyard IPA, which is hopped with Cascade, Columbus and Palisades to the tune of 60 IBU.

“I think we are a bit more adventurous than nine years ago, don’t you?” Steele said.

“We’re trying to provide an alternative for our core drinker.”

Who wouldn’t notice the similarity between the Devil’s Hopyard IPA name and that of the immensely popular Victory HopDevil IPA from Downington, Pa.?

We’d rather A-B picked a different name, but it’s also our opinion that members of the HopDevil Nation aren’t likely to jump ship based on a name. Meanwhile, if the Devil’s Hopyard is the voters’ choice, a few A-B loyalists have are going to have an opportunity to broaden their beer horizons. And that’s a good thing.

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On Wisconsin beers

The World Beer Cup results have sparked plenty of conversation on the Internet. If your favorite breweries didn’t win anything it might be because they didn’t enter. You can’t be sure.

For instance, you might wonder, did SandLot Brewery at Coors Field, which won seven medals at the 2005 Great American Beer Festival, enter the World Beer Cup? (In this case we know the answer is yes.)

Or why in the world didn’t New Glarus Brewing in Wisconsin, a perennial winner at such competitions, win anything? We didn’t know the answer to that one until we saw this in The Capital Times:

Missing from this list of Wisconsin winners was the New Glarus Brewery, which chose not to enter this year.

“We have been so busy with our construction, which is kicking our butts, we just didn’t have time to get it together,” said brewery co-owner Deb Carey, whose husband, Dan, was honored this year by the Brewers Association for innovation in brewing and his commitment to the craft brewing industry.

Speaking of Wisconsin beers, the Beer Man in Appleton doesn’t pull any punches in reviewing a couple of new beers: Leinenkugel Sunset Wheat and Capital Island Wheat.

On Sunset Wheat:

I find it incomprehensible that professional brewers could make a beer that is so off, and it’s even more troubling that someone tasted this after it was finished and decided it could be sold. Something is not right with this scenario.

For the Capital beer it was more a matter of not living up to the brewery’s normally high standards:

The beer is just bland – there is nothing to pick out. It’s not malty and there is no hop flavor to speak of. The wheat component is negligible. This is a beer that will no doubt sell like hotcakes in Door County to tourists who want souvenirs, but that’s about it.

Credit to the Beer Man for being upfront about what he thinks about beers from his home state.

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Take that, West Coast brewers

Don Russell, aka Joe Sixpack, writes about Philadelphia-area winners in the World Beer Cup, properly pointing out that if beer drinkers weren’t supporting the beers outside the norm that brewers couldn’t continue to experiment.

He lets Nodding Head Brewery & Restaurant brewer Gordon Grubb – whose Ich Bin Ein Berliner Weisse now has won three major medals – make the point. Grubb now brews so much of the sour wheat beer that he believes tiny Nodding Head is “far and away” the largest producer of Berliner weisse on this side of the Atlantic.

“It’s definitely one of those beers that’s not for everyone,” Grubb said. “It’s a love or hate situation. But once they get to know it, they often love it.

“What I’ve learned here is that if you do anything outside the norm, here in Philadelphia people are willing to try different kinds of things. Whether it’s beer or different restaurants, people want to experience different things with an open mind.”

The Brewers Association, which conducts the World Beer Cup, echoed the thought in a press release. “While these results are great news for American brewers, they also tell us something about American beer drinkers,” said Ray Daniels, Director of Craft Beer Marketing for the BA. “In order for breweries to make a beer, they must have consumers to drink it. So the breadth of beer styles made in the US indicates the diversity of beer styles and flavors consumed in the US compared to other countries around the world.”

That doesn’t mean we shouldn’t expect a little regional chest thumping. Another BA press release pointed out that California brewers won 10% of all medals, and that story has been repeated often by West Coast media.

So back to Joe Sixpack:

The result, Grubb continued, is that Philadelphia “brews a really great range of beers. It’s not like, say, California, which puts out some very hoppy beers and maybe a few Belgian styles. We run the whole gamut here.”

We figure the West Coast guys can defend themselves.

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Bock: Spring has sprung

The Los Angeles Times points out that among nationally distributed American beers, only Samuel Adams produces a true bock. But those who care about the style care about the style.

Dan Gordon, director of brewing operations for the Palo Alto-born Gordon Biersch chain of brewery-restaurants, makes more bocks than anybody else in this country: an extra-strong Winterbock, Maibock (available in April and May, but only on draft at the restaurants) and the year-round Blonde Bock. “I’m a fanatic about bock,” says Gordon, who fell in love with the style while he was an exchange student in Germany. “It’s my pride-and-joy beer.”

Bocks, of course, come in many colors and flavors – and while the style may be neglected by national breweries, there are plenty of local and regional craft choices, plus some of the German originals.

A good way to toast spring.

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Miller + GQ = Sophistication

Miller Brewing has kept its distance from the Here’s to Beer campaign designed to boost the image of beer.

That doesn’t mean the brewing company isn’t looking for an image updgrade. Citing a “consumer movement toward mainstream sophistication” Miller is partnering with GQ Magazine to promote Miller Genuine Draft with a “Summer Essentials” promotion. The program also includes a Miller Genuine Draft “take-one” mini mag that’s produced by GQ.

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New beers from foreign shores

Nearly two million visitors a year flock to Bavaria’s Sacred Mountain to visit the Kloster Andechs, home to one of one of Germany’s last monastery breweries.

Andechs HellDistinguished Brand International is set to begin importing Andechs Spezial Hell Lager this month, although it will be from Canada rather than Germany. DBI explains: “Andechs Spezial Hell is being brewed under direct supervision of the Benedictines and in strict accordance with their purity law called, Reinheitsgebot, at Brick Brewing Company in Waterloo, Ontario. To optimize Andechs special flavor, it will be available in 20 liter kegs (5.28 gallons). The small kegs reduce oxidation, helping to ensure Andechs superior flavor.”

Benedictine monks began brewing at Andechs in 1455, but now only nine monks live in the monastery where 40 once toiled. They have turned the brewing operations over to secular workers, with all but the wheat beer produced in a thoroughly modern brewery built 20 years ago at the base of a hill the monastery commands.

At Andechs, the Spezial Hell is produced using a double decoction mash. “Andechs views decoction as essential, although it costs a lot of money in energy,” said Alexander Reis, the general manager of brewery operations. “It gives the beer a deeper color, more pronounced body and a maltier finish.”

The amber-hued Spezial Hell, taking its color from CaraMunich malt, is lagered 4-5 weeks. 5.8% abv, 22 IBU.

Heineken LightHeineken has just kicked off a national advertising campaign to support its off-premise launch of Heineken Premium Light. The $50 million national campaign began with gala events in cities across the country in March, followed by the off-premise rollout in April.

Heineken expects to sell 5 million cases of Premium Light in 2006. Like Heineken, Premium Light is packaged in a green bottle, but this one is sleeker (svelte, if you will). Using taglines like “Succumb to Smooth,” Heineken is seeking to create a Luxury Light segment of the beer market that includes both Premium Light and Amstel Light.

Premium Light targets domestic light beer drinkers, while Amstel Light continues to offer itself as an alternative to fuller-bodied import beer aficionado. Served cold you wouldn’t mistake Premium Light for Heineken itself, although as it warms it shows some of the same low-malt, grainy character as Heineken, though at lower levels.

Will it taste skunky (a flavor often associated with imports), as Heineken often does when its green bottle spends a little time in the sun? You’ll have to conduct that experiment yourself.

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Schlitz looks to rekindle magic

Advertising Age reports that Pabst Brewing hopes to revive the Schlitz brand using the same sort of retro approach that fueled a surge in Pabst sales.

The problem for Schlitz and Pabst is that price apparently trumps retro, and sales dropped in 2005 when Anheuser-Busch cut prices on Natural Light and Busch.

magic

So Schlitz – which was the nation’s third best selling beer just 25 years ago – is turning up the volume, including a reprise of the gilded bottle from the 1950s.

“They absolutely have to do something,” said distributor Don Faust Jr. at Faust Distributor Co., Houston. “If price isn’t going to get people to buy Pabst and Schlitz, the alternative has to be more marketing.”

We’ve got another suggestion. Change what’s inside the bottle.

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New beers: American style

Dad’s Little Helper Malt Liquor. The Rogue press release points out “this ain’t your Dad’s malt liquor. Brewmaster John Maier has Roguerized the recipe by adding 40% Midwest corn, lightly hopping it with Oregon Crystal Hops, and then lagering it at a warmer temperature to help bring out the sweet, crisp flavors of the corn.” Sold in 22-ounce seriographed bottles with a label honoring Sonora Smart Dodd, who organized the first Father’s Day Celebration in 1910. 7% abv, 25 IBU.

Abita Strawberry Harvest Lager. The brewery on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain used Louisiana strawberries to brew this seasonal. From the press release: “Ripe, red Louisiana strawberries are harvested at the peak of the season for Abita Strawberry Harvest Lager. Creating Abita Strawberry Harvest is a balancing act. We craft it carefully so that the fruit and beer flavors work together. You get the aroma and taste of the strawberry, while at the same time allowing the underlying beer to refresh and satisfy the palate the way it should. The sweetness and acidity of the berries adds to the crispness of the lager.”

Buzzsaw BrownBuzzSaw Brown. Deschutes Brewery calls its newest seasonal “an easy-drinking beer that is refreshing after a hard day’s work.” A modest 4.8%, it qualifies as something of a session beer but has a soothing restorative quality. Packed with a full range of deep rich flavors and brimming with nutty roastiness. Gentle bitterness nicely balances the caramel sweetness. 4.8%, 30 IBU.

Inversion IPA. Deschutes Brewery in Oregon has replaced Quail Springs IPA with this unapologetically Northwest-style IPA. Starting with plenty of floral/citrus character – dry hopped for seven days – it’s weighted toward hops end of the spectrum. Crystal and carastan malts keep it in balance, offering plenty of caramel character before a drying hop bitterness returns at the finish. 6.8% abv, 75 IBU.

Skinny Dip. New Belgium Brewing’s latest qualifies as a low calorie beer with 110 calories (7 grams of carbs) and recently won a taste test of similar beers in Men’s Health magazine. Spiced with Cascade hops and a touch of kaffir lime leaf. NBB calls it “a most revealing beverage.” Much like the previously released seasonal, Loft, including the kaffir lime.

Skinny Dip

Sea Dog Apricot Wheat Beer. Due from Sea Dog Brewing (a subsidiary of Shipyard Brewing) in May. “Fruit flavored beer and spirits are popular nationally and consumers are looking for innovative, refreshing flavors,” said Bruce Forsley, director of sales and marketing. 4.6% abv.

Broken Halo IPA. Widmer Brothers in Oregon launched its India Pale Ale the same week in history when Prohibition was repealed for beer on April 7, 1933. “I can’t think of a better way to celebrate 73 years of the freedom to enjoy beer than with our new Broken Halo IPA,” said Kurt Widmer. Hopped with Cascade and Columbus hops, the IPA was first offered as a seasonal, then a Brewmaster’s Release and now become a year-round beer. 6% abv, 45 IBU.

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They didn’t like the beer

Anheuser-Busch recently and quietly – we haven’t seen a press release – rolled out a beer called Wild Hop.

The San Francisco Chronicle invited two representatives from Whole Foods to join in a blind tasting, given that Whole Foods is the kind of store Anheuser-Busch hopes will sell Wild Hop.

Wild Hop finished last in the tasting, while Caledonian Golden Promise was first.

(Cyrus) Kayvan, who correctly identified it though he’d never tasted it before, called it “bitter, malty and watery.” (Forrest) Allen’s notes read “manure, very weak.” (Linda) Murphy detected “marzipan, fruity, piney” notes, and said the lager was “thin on entry and shallow on palate.”

Not exactly a ringing endorsement.

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Spring offerings, starting with an apple lambic

New beers and seasonal returnees of note:

– Anchor Brewing in San Francisco brewed Anchor Bock for the first time in 2005. It’s back as a seasonal beer, officially available through May. Anchor makes the beer, like its famous Steam, as a hybrid – fermenting it with ale yeast, then lagering it at a very cold temperature.

Pomme– Lindemans in Belgium has added an apple lambic to a lineup that previously included Framboise (Raspberry), Peche (Peach), Kriek (Cherry), and Cassis (Black Currant). With Lindemans Pomme, fresh apples are added in the form of pure juice, contributing to a light body, a glowing golden color and crisp green-apple flavor.

Importer Merchant du Vin suggests pairing it with rich cream sauces, hearty soups, aromatic cheeses and spicy cuisine.

– Boulder Beer Co. in Colorado chose a less-than-traditional-name, Sweaty Betty Blonde, for the traditional Bavarian wheat beer that returns to shelves next month. The fifth release in Boulder’s “Looking Glass Series” of specialty beers, Sweaty Betty Blonde made its debut in 2004.

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An essential beer reference

An e-mail similar to this arrives at least once a day here at Realbeer.com:

“I recently visited [fill in the city and/or pub] and had [fill in the name of the beer]. Since I returned home to [fill in the location] I haven’t been able to find the beer. Can you help me?

Signed, [Desperate/Thirsty/Impatient/Frustrated]

Because Michael Kuderka had a similar crisis a couple of years ago The Essential Reference of Domestic Brewers and Their Bottled Brands was born. (Yes, that’s a title long enough to make you as thirsty saying it as thinking about the words in it.)

“The concept for the book was the result of attending a beer festival at Waterloo Village here in New Jersey, back in 2004,” said Kuderka, who created the book. “At the festival my wife, Cathy, and I watched passionate brewers fill countless foam-topped glasses and we were able to tasted any number of fantastic beers, but when we attempted to find some of these bottled brands at our local retailers, we didn’t have a great deal of success.

“In some cases, we remembered the style of beer but not the brewery; in other cases, we knew the brewery but were not too sure about the exact brand. What was immediately certain, however, was that neither retailers nor I had a quick, easy way to satisfy my thirst for these new brands or to end my ongoing quest.”

Kuderka started by collecting data and logging it into a spreadsheet, but soon realized that compiling a list of all the domestic breweries and their bottled brands would require building a sophisticated database. The book reflects the depth of his information.

It is divided into six sections. Section I provides an alphabetical listing of all U.S. brewers. Section II features Color and Bitterness Comparison Charts, which should help retailers – sometimes as overwhelmed as consumers – understand the similarities in the appearance and in the flavor of styles. Section III opens with detailed descriptions of most of the styles from the color charts, then has a Beer Style Index that shows which breweries offer which styles.

Section IV charts what states breweries ship beer to, while Section V follows with a complete geographic index. Section VI then offers more detail on each brewery’s portfolio, complete with beer descriptions and labels.

The DBBB, and the companion web site, are designed for use by beer retailers, beer wholesalers, convenience stores, supermarkets, and restaurants, but will also be of interest to beer consumers.

Kuderka has targeted the 35,000-plus U.S. retailers of beer. “Eight-nine percent of the retailers we surveyed told us that they were looking for new brands of beer,” he said.

Kuderka quickly learned the U.S. beer landscape is still changing, so is providing updates through his web site, making additions to the database each month. A code providing one-year’s access comes with the book.

Does this mean we’ll no longer receive the “Where do I find this beer for my spouse’s birthday” e-mails? Probably not, but we expect it will improve the choice of what’s available on the local shelves for all of us.