A bit of Belgium in Quebec
By Donald S. Gosselin
If you were asked which country has the greatest amount of breweries per capita,
what would your answer be? Germany? Britain?, the United States? Wrong, wrong
and wrong.
That honor belongs to Belgium, a place where some of the finest beers are
produced in Trappist monasteries. Oddly enough, Belgian cloistered monks
produce some of the world's best and most unique styles of beer. One such
example, a trippel or extra strong ale, can have an alcohol content as high as
twelve percent. Dubbels, or strong ales, usually fall into the six to nine
percent range. The special type of ale yeast used in brewing these beers, as
well as the brewer's use of candy sugar, often adds fruity aromas and flavors of
banana and clove spice. Another odd Belgian style is the witbier or white beer.
Crafted from barley and unmalted wheat and spiced with orange and coriander,
witbiers are light and refreshing. As is the case with most Belgian ales,
trippels, dubbels and witbiers are truly packed with flavor. Needless to say,
Bud drinkers beware.
As the microbrewing renaissance grows in America and Canada, new breweries are
embracing these quirky styles of brewing, often with delightful results.
Unibroue is one such example; this small and eccentric Quebec microbrewery
obviously takes its cue from Belgium. Unibroue naturally conditions their beers
in the bottle, hence the consumer will find small amounts of yeast sediment at
the bottom of each bottle. The sharp yeasty flavor of these ales is distinctly
Belgian, with common flavor notes of clove, spice and tart fruit. Fin du Monde
(End of the World) is a 9% alcohol blockbuster of a Belgian triple or extra
strong ale. Maudite (Damn!) at 8% is slightly lower in strength and reminiscent
of b>Orval, a strong ale brewed by Belgian Trappist monks. Blanche de Chambly,
a Belgian-style witbier, boasts the cloudiness, frothiness, spice and clove of
this unique style of wheat beer, but is missing the orange essence often found
in other wit beers including, Hoegaarden, Blanche de Bruge, American
contract-brewed Wit! and Celis White, brewed in Texas. Raftman, an unusual
smoked beer made from Scotch whisky malt, rounds out the offerings of this
offbeat Quebecois brewery. Raftman is light to medium bodied with a hint of
peat smoke in the nose and plenty of smoky, single malt scotch flavor.
A recap of this month's Yankee Brew Review:
Ratings range from * poor to ***** excellent
Blanche de Chambly (Wit beer of Chambly) - Cloudy with yeast and pale. Clove
and coriander spice nose. Effervescent, minty and tart flavor, quenching.
Smooth and clean finish with little, if any, orange essence commonly found in
this style of beer. ** 1/2
Raftman - Light copper color with nice bead of foam. Mostly malt aroma with a
bit of clove and peat smoked malt. Prominent smoke flavor with gentle malt
finish. ** 1/2
Maudite (Damn!) - Medium amber ale with lacy head of foam. Generous apple and
pear aroma with a hint of cloves. Mint clove and pepper flavors from high
alcohol (8%). Pleasantly smooth finish with malt caramel. Damn fine beer
indeed! ****
Fin du Monde (End of the World) - Pale golden color, yeasty with a dense head of
foam. Aroma mostly of lemon citrus with pepper from high alcohol (9%). Flavor
is tart and fruity with cloves and alcohol kick. Finish doesn't linger very
long. ***
© 1996 Donald S. Gosselin
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