It's about taste
By Donald S. Gosselin
What should a perfect ber taste like? A lot of that depends on what the taster
enjoys. Some beer lovers prefer the powerful malt of microbrewed doublebocks
and strong ales. Others enjoy the sharp hop tang found in many of our regions
pale ales and IPAs. Others still enjoy the pungent sourness of a lambic, kriek
or framboise.
If you're like me, you probably enjoy different styles at different times of the
year. Early spring evenings, for example, call for a beer that not only is
robustly flavored, but has a bit of alcohol kick to warm the blood. A robust
porter, along the lines of Ould Newbury Porter, will certainly meet those
requirements. For me, summer is wheat beer and pilsner season. There are few
better lawn-mowing rewards than a Julius Echter Weiss or a Sam Adams Boston
Lager, a wheat beer and a pilsner beer respectively.
No matter what you enjoy and when you choose to enjoy it, there are a few things
that one ought to look for in a beer's flavor profile. Let's start with a
general rule. As is the case with wine, balance is the key to all malt
beverages. A well-crafted beer should feature a symphony between two basic
ingredients -- hops and malt. No soloists need apply here. Too much of one
particular ingredient can throw the entire brew into disharmony. When a beer is
out of balance, it usually contains too much, or too little hop bitterness.
Have you ever had a beer that made your mouth pucker? Maybe you tasted one that
made you thirsty afterwards? Or perhaps you had a beer that left your palate
emphatically dry. These are classic signs of an overhopped beer, one that
features a large amount of hops out of balance with the sweetness and body of
malt. Before we go further, there are some classic bers styles that call for a
large proportion of hops. India Pale Ales (IPAs) in particular are reknown for
their generous hopping levels. However, India Pale Ales also have larger
amounts of malt used in their recipes. The premise is a simple one -- once the
taster perceives the hop tang, hop flavor and hop bitterness, he immediately
tastes some smooth caramel or toasty malt sweetness in the finish of the beer.
If those malt flavors are absent, the taster is left with that puckering bitter
sensation on the palate, which, by itself, is not a great taste sensation. In
short, when brewing a beer that calls for a lot of hops, a master brewer must
ensure that he balances those hops with some additional malt sweetness.
On the opposite end of the spectrum are beers that are underhopped. Let's not
confuse underhopped beers with the sweeter styles of Scotch ale and double bock
beers. Both of these styles contain enough hops -- just barely -- to cleanse
the palate of any lingering sweetness in the finish. Sure, they're big and
sweet up front, but if you taste them carefully, you'll feel that sweetness
swept from your palate with a drying hop bitterness. On the other hand,
underhopped beers taste much like a milkshake in their cloying sweetness. World
travelers may find them similar to Malta Goya, an unfermented beer soft drink
that is widely popular in Latin America. Unlike Scotch ales and double bocks,
underhopped beers all have a lingering, mouth-coating oversweetness that lingers
on through the finish. Thankfully, not many microbrewed beers are that badly
out of balance.
As is the case with aromatics, there are some unusual flavors that can be found
in beer. Occasionally, an ale is so fruity that the fruit crosses over into the
flavor. For example, may Belgian Trappiste beers have a small degree of banana
flavor in their profiles. Most weizen beers have a slight, yet distinctive aroma
and flavor of cloves. Many well made British-style ales taste of licorice,
butter, wood, and minerals. While these flavors are pleasant, they should not
be overdone, particularly with butteriness, or diacetyl. Buttery flavors should
never be found in any lager except a handful of Czech pilsners. A hint of
sulfur in some lagers is acceptable, too much is not. Lambics, perhaps the
quirkiest of all beers, may not only have aromas and flavors of fruit, but also
have unusually sharp flavors described as lactic, horsey, phenolic and just
plain sour. While some people confuse bitterness and sourness as the same
sensation, they are fairly simple to tell apart. Sourness is detected on the
sides of the palate, while bitterness is detected at the end.
Some flavors do not belong in beer at all. Any papery flavor is a sign of
oxidation, usually caused by mishandling at the brewery or at the
distributorship. Sherry flavors also indicate oxidation, and are most often
found in British imports. Soapiness and "cooked cabbage" flavors are usually
signs of contamination at the brewery. Saltiness is usually caused by overuse
of mineral salts to "harden" the brewery's water supply. Beers that are either
sour or taste medicinal, with the exception of lambics (see above), may also be
contaminated. Beers that are astringent or "grainy" need some tinkering at the
brewery.
Now that you've read about these flavors and aromas, reach into the display case
and pull out a cool one. If you pull out a cold one by mistake, let it warm up
just a bit to unlock the flavor. Cheers.
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