Great Lakes Brewing News Archive

Ontario Beer News

Originally Published: 12/97

by Ian Bowering

Reflecting the volatile nature of the current industry, Copperhead Brewing in Nepean has closed after five years of business. While Hart Breweries is demonstrating that it is on the comeback trail with the fall release of its Pumpkin ale (5% abv), rumour has it that the Ottawa region will soon see Hart pitted against Brick to win the taps of local publicans.

On the brewpub front, the Clocktower's beers are improving all of the time, while Master's remain as unpalatable as before. As for Major's, the loss of their European brewer has led to the loss of their wide variety of tastes and the evolution of a competent single house Euro-Lager flavour for all taps.

Still in Ottawa, the Arrow and the Loon, a member of the Neighbourhood Pub Group, may soon have its own house beer. Even if they don't, the Loon is worth a visit for its real ale, wide variety of Ontario micros, and food. Recently, I had the opportunity to attend one of their seasonal six course beer dinners. Served to a capacity crowd that boasted almost as many women as men, organizers let the beer and Chef Paul Tingley's food do the talking, rather than bombard diners with endless comments during the meal. While this format may put people such as myself out of work, it was one of the most enjoyable beer dinners I have attended. This of course had something to do with the brilliant menu, that according to Chef Paul, derived from his home repertoire of favourites. Starting off with the "Amuses"- beer and tomato mussels, weisse, basil, chevre and balsamic crudities, beer barbecued eggplant phylos pizza triangles and Sleeman Honey Lager, the meal began at 6:30 and ended at 10 PM with a plate of lime and lager sorbet, chocolate stout ice, cherry kriek granite, Upper Canada Ale, and a bumper of La Fin Du Monde for good measure.

Still in Eastern Ontario, travelers between Ottawa and Montreal can now find a credible lager at the halfway point of Hawkesbury, at Brasseurs Hawkesbury Brewers. Starting out in 1993 as a brew on premise, this summer a 14 hl Inox brewing system was installed, soon followed by kegs of Hawk Blonde, 5% abv. Made by former homebrewer Terry Ladas the pilsner recipe beer receives a fruity character by the use of an ale yeast. Using 2 and 6 row barley, some crystal malt and wheat, along with Hallertau and Cascade hops, this traditional Canadian lager is a welcome addition to the taps in True Bland (Blue) land. Hoping to spread out across the rest of Eastern Ontario, Terry and his partner Rick Turnbull plan to be in bottles soon (tel/fax 613.632.2273).

Draught only, Great Lake Brewing Company of Etobicoke, has marked its 10th year with a newsletter, the "Brewer's Beacon". Brewing mainstream Great Lakes Lager, 5% abv and Red Leaf Lager, 5% abv, the brewery started out as a malt extract operation in a strip mall in Brampton. After refinancing several times, the brewery was moved to its present location in 1992 and is now a familiar site to anyone who travels the Queensway into Toronto. If you are interested in obtaining the "Brewer's Beacon" which contains information about the brews, brewery news, beer/food recipes, and beer lore, call 1.800.463.5435; fax 416.255.4907, or [email protected]

Charles McLean, of F&M fame, is planning to brew Honey Wheat, Lager, Cream Ale, Special Draft and Dark Mild Ale to compliment his Stonehammer Pilsner and namesake Pale Ale.

Cameron Howe is hopping to establish Cameron's Brewing Co, in Etobicoke, with a Cream Ale, this year.

In the Who needs it? category, Biere Mont Tremblant Beer Inc. of Mont Tremblant, Quebec, is now contract-brewing at the Lakeport plant in Burlington, so that they can sell their 5% abv Tremblant Pilsner and Amber in both Ontario and Quebec. My son Mac and I were offered some samples of these beers, and after one whiff thought abstinence a virtue.

Celis White review

With three Belgium White beers available to Ontario beer aficionados through the beer store and the LCBO, selection has never been better. First there was Unibroue's bottle conditioned Blanche de Chambly, followed by Interbrew's bottle conditioned Hoegaarden imported by Labatt's, and finally Celis White brewed in Ontario under license by Brick.

With my bias for bottle conditioned beers, a blind tasting was imperative. The beers were all chilled for the same length of time and served to me in similar glasses, and I followed the usual tasting routine of viewing, nosing, sipping, analyzing the brews as I drank. And believe me when I say it (Brick did not pay for this), Celis White won hands down, with the most subtle yeasty/fruity aroma, and most full-bodied spicy palate. For my taste it simply had the most flavour and character. While Blanche de Chambly was the most refreshing, the nose was yeastier, and the body less pronounced. And to my surprise Hoegaarden placed third with a domineering yeasty nose and astringent body. Try the three of them back to back and see what you find.

With the recent acquisitions of Connors and Algonquin by Brick Brewing many of us have wondered which brands would be dropped. Sad to say, Connors Stout has gone, leaving the Premium Lager,Best Bitter, Dark Ale, Hammerhead Red and Special Draft. At Algonquin, eleven labels were reduced to seven. Brands dropped include Formosa Springs Light and Bock, Algonquin Light and Hunt Club Cream Lager. Brewing 24 of their own brands, plus six licensed labels, at their own breweries, Brick has become a microcosm of the diversity available in the Ontario micro industry.