Great Lakes Brewing News Archive

Beer Geek meets Gourmet

Originally Published: 12/97

By: Ian Bowering

by Ian Bowering

Brewpubs have come a long way from their malt extract days, when the most noteworthy comment you could make about the housebrew was that it was brown, and when food included pub grub amidst a sea of ferns. Saddled with a five vessel Cask Malt Extract system, that has now been converted to full grain, Pepperwood Bistro and Brewery has successfully made the transition to the 90's. And because they're a faithful supporter of Great Lakes Brewing News, Bill M. asked me to review Pepperwood for you. Always willing to taste my way to dollars, I gladly drove to Burlington Ontario to meet the lads at Pepperwood.

Anticipating that I would need a place to stay over after conducting an afternoon of analysis, I drove straight into the thick of town looking for a motel. As luck would have it, Pepperwood is located in the heart of the old downtown, across from a Venture Inn. I careened into the parking lot, through a wedding party and presented myself to the front desk, sensing immediately that I was out of my element. The clerk frostily informed me that the Inn was full. Chilled but undaunted, I asked if there were any other motels, and was answered yes, the Riviera, next door, had rooms if I had the stomach. Never one to be shy, and always packing a tin of Raid along with my Listerine, I knocked on the door of the Riviera and received the shock of the day. Not only was it acceptable, it was perfect, and cheap. Only $50 got me a room with a balcony overlooking the lake.

Smug in my boldness I went for my noon hour espresso, which propelled me on a ten mile bicycle ride along the waterfront trail, all in preparation for the work at hand.

Sampling the Beers

Greeted by assistant brewer Michael Knul, I started with a four ounce sample of the unfiltered wit (4.5% abv). It contained all the usual flavorings of coriander, lemon grass, lemon and orange peel, and the slice of lemon worked wonders in cutting the astringency of this brew.

Relaxed, I moved onto the Chibuku Cream Ale, 4.5% abv, named after Chibuku maize beer made in Zambia. Pepperwood's Chibuku is a light-bodied beer, with a fruity nose and estery flavors. And as this is a beer review, I will ask your indulgence in permitting me to say I could also taste apricot and butterscotch flavors. The poetry from my pen began to pick up speed with my consumption, but I was saved from further embarrassment when brewer David Wood arrived. Full of impertinence I asked him what he was trying to achieve with his beer? Rather than pour a pint of suds over my head, he replied, "low bubble, high flavor." Armed with this knowledge, I sampled the Different Drummer 3.5%, modeled after an English mild.

My palate now ready for some hops, I was given a glass of McKenna's Naturally Bitter Ale, 4.5%, with a bittering content around 32 IBUs. The beer was reminiscent of Dragon's Breath and obliged me to have a second, as I was becoming homesick for Eastern Ontario. Not finished, I was offered their 5% abv Oktoberfest beer, a malty, fruit lager, in the style of a Vienna Red. Spot on, I had another.

Noting real ale apparatus, I asked if they had any on. Sadly, they were out. Not to worry though, with thirteen taps sporting some of the best brands Ontario has to offer, along with some of Quebec's superstars, there were enough beers to make any beer geek happy.

As it was too early for dinner, and nearly too late to stop, I went for a walk, and another espresso.

Coming back for supper, I noticed that Pepperwood's was not your ordinary pub. In fact, it could be called trendy. A place you could take your mother-in-law. A place that deep fryers, but not cigars, might be banned! Then I remembered that Michael had been a fine arts student. Decorated with contemporary local art, that is cliches flying over Burlington Bay in Mediterranean colors, I bravely embraced the menu, chanting "real men eat quiche." I didn't need to worry, the menu offered everything from grilled chicken calamari to jambalaya (and yes, burgers). I had the daily special of Salmon Wellington, with asparagus soup. All I can say is the only thing better that the food was the service.

Suffering beer fatigue, I capped my excises with a snifter of armangnac and retreated to my porch on the Bay. (Oh yeah, dinner for one was $28 Canadian).

Pepperwood Bistro & Brewery is located at 1455 Lakeshore Road, in Burlington, Ontario. Tel.- 905.333.6999 fax 905.333.6858.