Yankee Brew News Archive

Pub Review: The Blackthorne Tavern

Originally Published: 07/94

By: Kerry J. Byrne

No Bud, no Zima, no Ice Beers.

Such are the rules that govern the beer selection at the Blackthorne Tavern, a gem of a pub tucked away at 402 Turnpike St. (Route 138) in the small town of South Easton, Mass.

Featuring an English pub style atmosphere, folk music and 30 bottled and 10 draft beers, the Blackthorne speaks of comfort. The beer selection leaves few stones unturned, and co-owner John O'Connor sees to it that there is something for every palate.

"We try to keep something for everyone - porter, bitter, stout, lagers. We're even looking to add a rauchbier soon," said O'Connor.

More specifically, visitors will find bottled beers such as Thomas Hardy's Ale, Celis White, Young's Stout, Julius Echter Hefe-Weisse and Chimay, not to mention a host of others. Taps include the classic Fullers ESB, Welsh Ale, Warsteiner and Samuel Adams Boston Ale.

It is apparent that O'Connor and his partner, Barnes Newberry, care about the selection and quality of beers that they carry. A strict rotation policy is kept by the owners. When I mentioned to O'Connor that the Fullers ESB poured by bartender Patrice Smith was among the freshest tasting I've ever had in the States, he explained why.

"We don't let any of our beer sit around," he remarked. "If a barrel stays unfinished for over a week, we'll discontinue the product. We keep our beers fresh," he continued, "because it's the only way to go; many of our drinkers are fanatics and they know the difference. We also clean our lines every week."

Although it has a well represented international collection of beers, the New England loyalist may be disappointed to see that the Blackthorne carries few locally brewed products aside from the Boston Ale. This is a problem that O'Connor is aware of and is addressing.

"We're looking to carry more local beers. This has been pointed out to us by a lot of the members of the South Shore Home Brew club who held their first meeting here," said O'Connor. "We'd also like to get a homebrew line - maybe have a competition and we'll use the winner as our house brew. We have to check out the legality of something like that first."

In the business for eight years, O'Connor and Newberry have witnessed first hand the evolution of the New Englander's taste for beer.

"The small breweries have really turned things around. In the past so many good beers came through here that no one ever drank," said O'Connor. "But now people are more aware of the variety of beers that are out there and are more willing to try them."

The aversion of the owners towards bland mass-marketed American pale lagers is represented by an unusually marked tap behind the bar. When I finally admitting to being dumbfounded as to what kind of beer may flow from the unidentifiable tap, O'Connor laughed.

"That's our Miller Lite tap," he confessed. "The Miller salesman doesn't like the fact that we cover it like that, but...what are you gonna do?"

English style memorabilia adorn the Blackthorne. After entering through the tavern's breezeway one is greeted by replicas of the heavy, wooden pub signs that dot the streets of London. On the front facade of the tavern is an actual metal sign from Fullers' Chiswick, London brewery. The working fireplace and shelves of crusty old books also add an English air to the pub.

For those seeking more than just beer, the Blackthorne offers both music and fine food. Live bands perform almost nightly and usually play soft rock or traditional folk music, the kind conducive to the drinking of good beer and the holding of good conversation. Friday nights draw the younger, drinking set, while Saturdays draw more of the dinner crowd, according to bartender Smith.

The eight page menu centers around standard pub fare but with upscale-style ingredients. The sandwich list is particularly impressive. Note the Molly Maguire (corned beef, sauerkraut, Dijon mustard), the Ploughman (English cheddar, chutney, relish, tomato, sweet butter), and my personal favorite, the Fairport Fancy, featuring hot grilled tomatoes and turkey - perhaps the best sandwich this side of Barulli's, the sandwich emporium of Bayonne, New Jersey.

The Blackthorne is located near the intersection of Routes 138 and 106. If you're driving down 138 don't blink, lest you miss the small, unpretentious building. It is hardly visible from the road, and, like myself, you'll probably pass by it at least once. But once found it certainly makes the trip worthwhile.