Yankee Brew News Archive

Brewpub Review: The Brew House of Danvers

Originally Published: 04/96

By: Ronald Charles Tanguay

What makes your heart feel wonderful,

Makes our heart feel wonderful.

Our liver is happy, our heart is joyful.

May Ninkasi live together with you.

-Sumerian "Hymn to Ninkasi", Goddess of Beer (1800 BC)

A fine example of a brew pub which explores the interaction of great beer with great food is the Brew House of Danvers, Massachusetts.

Opening its doors in October 1995, owners Chis Shea and Dennis Sherman have created a brew pub which captures much of the spirit of the "Hymn to Ninkasi." Their large and attractive rectangular cherry wood bar, soon gives one the feeling of being in a Dublin or London pub. This impression is reinforced by the over one hundred "British Imperial Pint" sized mugs hanging from the ceiling which belong to the Mug Club members, each of whom receive one dollar off each mug of beer.

The Brew House of Danvers is characterized by a warm and friendly atmosphere. The regulars feel more like family members than customers, and look forward to friendship and comradery with friends and fellow Mug Club members. Other than the special 20 oz. mugs, which are available only for use by Mug Club members, the beers at the Brew House of Danvers are available in 10 oz., 15 oz, 20 oz., and 23 oz. glasses, and range from $2.00 to $4.00 each.

The brewery was set up by the famous British brewing consultant Alan Pugsley, who studied under Peter Austin of England, a man of over thirty years brewing experience. Alan Pugsley has been involved in the installation of over 100 breweries and has developed hundreds of award winning recipes. The head brewer Fred Wesemann brews a number of excellent hand crafted English style ales along with a true Czechoslovakian Pilsner style lager.

The following beers may be enjoyed at the Brew House:

Buddy's Blond Ale

This is the "lightest" beer offered at the Brew House. "Light" is, of course, a relative term, especially when one compares the color of Buddy's Blond Ale to the anemic brews of the large conglomerates. A light amber in color, this beer's name was created as a good natured way of poking fun at the consumers of massed produced beer who can generally be found lurking on the fringes of the real beer universe in search of a more flavorful option to their usual dull fare. Buddy's Blond Ale is similar to the traditional lighter types of English Milds in that is a low gravity brew which is light on the hops. The Brew House of Danver's Buddy's Blond Ale is characterized by a subtle hop character, a smooth dry taste, and a very distinctive malty finish.

Pugsley's Pilsner

This beer is brewed in the classic Czechoslovakian style, which was first produced in Pilzn, Czechoslovakia in 1842. It is currently the only lager available at the Brew House of Danvers. This beer is golden yellow in color and is lightly carbonated. Pugsley's Pilsner is characterized by a distinct hop aroma derived from imported Hallertau and Saaz hops, and has a very smooth and clean floral finish.

General Putnam's Pale Ale

General Putnam's Pale Ale, the signature ale of the Brew House of Danvers, is named after General Israel Putnam, one of Danvers' most famous sons of the American Revolution. Putnam's Pale Ale is a copper-colored traditional full bodied English style ale with a rich fruity hop bouquet contributed by the use of three types of hops. It has a clean palate with a touch of malt and has a dry crisp hoppy finish.

Extra Special Bitter

This deep copper hued ale, the specialty of brewer Fred Wesemann, is one of the best bitters produced in New England, if not this side of the "big pond." The classic English Bitter style is created by the generous use of bittering hops, as opposed to the aromatic varieties. Bitter was recognized in England as a true style of beer only relatively recently (since around 1934). English Bitter is a calming, congenial, and restful beer especially suited for pub sessions with friends. It is a beer which inspires dreams and debates. The Brew House of Danvers E.S.B. is brewed with pale, crystal, chocolate, and carapils malts along with torrefied wheat, producing a deep amber or copper-colored brew. It is hopped with domestic Cluster and Cascade hops from the Pacific Northwest, and finished with imported English Fuggles giving this beer a very aromatic and pungent aroma. It has a smooth and creamy texture, rich malty overtones, and a very dry hoppy finish.

Breed's Hill Brown Ale

Breed's Hill Brown Ale's rich reddish-brown color is derived from the use of generous quantities of roasted and caramel malts in the brewing process. This beer is characterized chiefly by its malty character and has very little of the bitter finish of the E.S.B. This ale is very similar to Northern England's Newcastle Nut Brown Ale and is a specialty item which is not always available.

Pope's Porter

Pope's Porter is brewed with pale, crystal, chocolate, and black patent malts, and is well hopped with Cluster, Tettnang, Willamette, and Cascade hops from the Pacific Northwest. It has a distinct hoppy aroma with a dry fruity finish.

Misery Island Stout

Misery Island Stout is brewed in the true dry stout tradition of Ireland, and is rich, creamy, and black as a moonless night. It is brewed with large quantities of pale, crystal, chocolate, and black patent malts, balanced with the addition of Cluster, Willamette, and Cascade hops.

The Brew House of Danvers will also be producing seasonal beers such as Winter Ale, Wheat Beer, India Pale Ale, etc. There are future plans for offering customers cask conditioned ales, and rumor has it that the next lager will be in the style of Germany's famous Dortmunder Union.

Both Alan Pugsley and head brewer Fred Wesemann should be congratulated for having designed and brewed some of the best beer available in the area. Having sampled the products of many microbreweries from Boston to Santa Barbara, I would not hesitate to rate the beers of the Brew House of Danvers among the very best available anywhere in the United States. I believe that after they have been around for a few years, my opinion will be shared by a large majority of local aficionados of hand crafted beer.

Last, but not least, congratulations should also be extended to John Merrill, Executive Chef, and Christopher McGrail, Executive Sous Chef for proffering the Brewhouse's excellent cuisine, which by the way includes the only genuine English style fish and chips in the area. Also, all of the pasta and breads are made on the premises.

In his 1825 treatise on the culinary arts entitled La physiologie du go�t (The Physiology of Taste), the great French lawyer, politician, and gourmande Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826), defined man as "that animal that fears the future and has a desire for fermented beverages." So, next time you overwhelmed by a desire for fermented beverages, take a trip to the Brew House of Danvers, and offer a toast to Ninkasi, our newly reinstated goddess of microbrewed beer. Long may she reign!

The Brew House of Danvers is located at 65 Newbury Street (junction of Routes 1 & 114), Danvers, Massachusetts, 01923. For more information, call 508-777-6666.

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