Yankee Brew News Archive

Beer Tasting and Turkey Bowling Enliven Stowe Winter Carnival

Originally Published: 04/96

By: Kerry J Byrne

The origins of Turkey Bowling are shrouded in mystery. It is, I am certain, closely related to the horseshoes/jarts family of potentially hazardous outdoor games played with beer in hand. But that is a guess. Missing archaeological evidence stands in the way of definitive proof. The Otzal Valley Ice Man, discovered a few years ago high in the Italian alps, was believed to be in possession of a frozen turkey, though scientists now debate the existence of the evidence and whether the 5,000-year-old man would have had the time, inclination or mental capacity for Turkey Bowling.

Turkey Bowling is just that: Rolling frozen fowl, hoarfrost hen, dare I say, cold cock, across an icy lake in an attempt to knock over a set of ice-filled plastic bottles which serve as pins. It sounds bizarre. But it is played in northern Vermont, where cow tipping and tractor racing remain rites of passage for schoolboys and some of the less popular schoolgirls. I stumbled across Turkey Bowling by accident. At the end of the first afternoon of a ski weekend in Stowe, our hosts, the mighty and soon to be legendary Monsens, suggested we join them at the Commodore Inn for the Stowe Winter Carnival's First Annual Beer Tasting and Turkey Bowling. Did someone say beer tasting? Twist our arms.

So off we go, five men, five women, to meet our hosts, Pete and Karen. Someone made us a deal: We help the brewers pour beer and we drink for free. Twist 'em again, harder, harder! (Bureaucracy worked in our favor on this evening: It is a peccadillo of Vermont law that employees of breweries cannot serve beer at public tastings.) Once inside the warm, cozy inn we take turns pouring beers (and drinking beers) for the good folks of Catamount, Long Trail, Magic Hat, Otter Creek and The Shed breweries, while waiting our turn to step outside on the frozen lake behind the inn to learn the new Sport of Kings, Turkey Bowling.

As our time neared we gathered 'round a fire on the edge of the lake, shielded ourselves from the bitter mid-winter winds and divvied up teams the old-fashioned way: girls vs. boys, or as was more appropriate to the Viking-like conditions, Beauties vs. Beasts. Some poor Stowe soul kept score. I wonder if he, just for one tiny second, thought to himself, 'I'm standing on a sheet of ice. It's 10-below zero. And I'm keeping score as a bunch of people throw turkeys across this god-forsaken lake while my wife is inside dancing, drinking and eating.' Inspired by our fallen comrade, the Beasts proudly carried the day. The Beauties were not without their heroes. Alexia took one for the team when a turkey thrown by a Beast bounced into the wrong alley. As she picked herself off the ice she demanded another round of Vermont-made libations for the crew. Both Beauty and Beast applauded her fortitude.

After the game, we ran inside the toasty inn to warm our cockles with some more beer. It was easier that we quickly severed our ties to the sport. Easier that we stopped playing immediately. Easier that we quit - ouch! - cold turkey. Turkey Bowling, which if Ben Franklin had his way would now be America's pastime, is just one of a long list of activities--ranging from snow shoe and cross country ski races to beer tasting and casino night - put together for the week of the Stowe Winter Carnival each January. This was the first time local breweries were featured as part of the Carnival.

The Stowe Winter Carnival committee brought together all but a handful of the great breweries of Vermont to add local flavor to the Turkey Bowling event. Before and after our efforts at learning the Sweet Science of the '90s, we sampled Magic Hat's Blind Faith (some sort of very good pale ale, trust me) and Heart of Darkness (definitely a very good stout); Otter Creek's Stovepipe Porter (perfect on a chilly eve), the Shed Restaurant & Brewery's Mountain Ale (strong ale for hearty people), Catamount's Pale Ale (new in bottles!), and Long Trail Ale (Mountain Brewers of Bridgewater, by the way, recently moved to a new facility in the same town and changed its name to Long Trail Brewers). Notable absentees were the Vermont Pub & Brewery of Burlington, McNeill's Pub of Brattleboro and Jasper Murdock's Ale House of Norwich. However, the small function room at the Commodore Inn would beerly have been able to handle more breweries.

For beer lovers, there are at least two great places in Stowe (I'm sure there are others) which deserve attention.

One is the Shed Restaurant and Brewery, located about halfway between Stowe Village and Mt. Mansfield on Mountain Road (Rt. 108). The main dining room is bright with greenery and has a large central fireplace. The bar area is dark, 'pubby' and warming.

The Shed burnt down in 1994 after nearly 30 years in business. When owners Kathy and Ken Strong rebuilt it, they had the foresight to include a small brewhouse. It is a tribute to the hearty folks of Stowe that the biggest selling beer at the Shed is an English Strong Ale with 7 percent alcohol by volume called Mountain Ale. Chris Ericson may be the only brewer in New England who can claim a Strong Ale as his best seller.

A sampler of five Shed beers is served on a mini-wooden ski. Ericson said he is not particularly fond of his basic golden ale. I disagree. I hardly ever choose the style, but think his is wonderfully rounded, aromatic and tasty. The burly, balanced, almost sinful Mountain Ale is the No. 1 seller for good reason. Other popular choices are the India Pale Ale and Porter. The Shed recently made available growlers of its beers which are sold in the restaurant for off-premise consumption.

Also on Mountain Road., but much closer to the village, is a place we decided to check out simply because it had a red British pay phone out front. It is called Mr. Pickwick's Polo Pub and is part of Ye Olde England Inne. The pub has a main bar room with gas fireplace and boasts a beer list of 150 offerings. The beer selection is very good but could be shored up by more beers from local brewers. The inn has been recognized by The Wine Spectator for its wine list.

Local beers on tap included Magic Hat #9 (an unique, tasty and well-made apricot ale), Otter Creek Copper Ale (a German-style alt), Long Trail Ale (also an alt), Old Thumper from The Shipyard Brewery in Maine and Griffon Extra Pale Ale from Montreal. I was pleased to see a hand pump at the bar, then disappointed to learn that it was just put in and not yet connected to any beer. In February the hand pump was set to begin dispensing Magic Hat's Blind Faith.

The pub adheres to English tradition by serving all its draught beers in 20-ounce imperial pints and half-pints. (Nothing bothers me more than a place that calls itself an authentic English pub while serving beers in eight-ounce pilsner glasses.) British beers on tap included Young's Ram Rod, Young's Oatmeal Stout, Whitbread and John Courage.

Perhaps most impressive is the Mr. Pickwick's selection of Belgian beers, which included Kwak Coachmen's Ale, Rodenbach Grand Cru, Blanche de Bruges, and Boon's Gueuze, Faro, Kriek and Framboise. To the left of the bar, hidden from view, is a parlor complete with crackling wood-burning fireplace, plush couches and chairs. The parlor is a great feature in English pubs and it's good to see one here in New England. Trust me.

Stowe is perhaps the epitome of the New England winter resort town. There's much ado about everything during the season of short days and long nights. Beautiful inns, shops and restaurants line the main streets and the list of activities is endless. My little list of places to get good beer is hardly comprehensive. It is a safe bet that there are many other establishments in the region serving up good local brew. For information about Stowe or the 1997 Stowe Winter Carnival, call the Stowe Area Association at (802) 253-7321.