Yankee Brew News Archive

Brewpub Review: Owen O'Leary's Restaurant and Brewpub

Originally Published: 08/97

By: Bob DiCesare

Dan Climo isn't kidding when he claims he's a man of the world.

In 1990-91, he took off with his girlfriend, Kim, on a one-year trip around the globe which brought them to most of the great beermaking countries. Not only did Kim become his wife on their journey, but Climo also became quite adept in his knowledge of different beer styles.

Little did he know that such knowledge and interest in beer would eventually lead to last year's appointment as head brewer at Owen O'Leary's Restaurant and Brewpub in Natick, Massachusetts. There are four restaurants in the Owen O'Leary's chain -- Southboro, Brockton, Quincy, Natick -- but only the newest Natick location just off Route 9 on the ground floor of the Hampton Inn brews its own beer.

"It's not just Owen O'Leary's anymore,'' said Climo, who also attended the Siebel Institute of Technology in Chicago for brewing before becoming head brewer. "It's Owen O'Leary's brewpub, a place that serves quality microbrew.''

Owen O'Leary's, which opened in May, 1996, but didn't start serving its own beer until last January, presents seven house brews on draught from its year-round selection and offers two rotating seasonals from its 10-barrel system. Many beer drinkers at Owen O'Leary's are happy even before they've taken their first sip. A pint of craft brew costs just $2.75, except for their light beer offering which is only $2.25.

What Climo has done at Owen O'Leary's Brewpub is offer style variety based on his selection of grains and his first-hand experience abroad. The Irish Red Ale is their best seller. It's a rich, malty ale with a lot of body and Climo uses a "unique'' blend of hops to offset the sweetness. Dry hopping adds a fruity, citrus aroma. The Golden Ale sells well as a full-bodied, copper-colored ale. Goldings hops give this brew a distinct aroma and pleasing finish. The Owen O'Leary's Light Ale is a popular selection because of its general appeal. It has a crisp, delicate taste, but it's still too weak and dry for my palate.

My personal favorite is the Irish Stout, which Owen O'Leary's bills as their version of the Emerald Isle classic. It's smooth like a Guinness, but it has a slightly roasted finish which I find particularly enticing. Climo says he's hunted down some sour malt from upstate New York to give it that taste. Their Cherry Stout is a twist on an old recipe. It starts with a tart, cherry flavor followed by a sweet, chocolaty finish. The English Mild Ale is a medium-bodied, easy-drinking brew that is probably as close to a cask-conditioned style as Climo can make for a chilled beer. It's a good session brew that's probably the real sleeper of the group.

Climo has taken a liking to brown ale ever since he began homebrewing nine years ago. Naturally, he's big on his Brown Ale, which he offers in a full-bodied, traditional style with hints of caramel. Current seasonals on tap this summer are a Summer Wheat beer, which is unfiltered with a light, refreshing taste, and a Honey Blackberry Ale, a blend of tart blackberries and local honey that packs a little punch for a fruit beer at 6.0% alcohol.

"There will always be a fruit ale,'' said Climo, 35, a Lakeville, Massachusetts, resident. "Right now, we're working on an ESB for late summer-early fall, and then follow that with a porter and Octoberfest for autumn.''

Owen O'Leary's also offers Post Road Ale and Post Road IPA on draught and, for those who are set in their ways, the bottled beer list still includes Heineken, Amstel Light, Harp, Rolling Rock, Budweiser, and Bud Light.

"At Owen O'Leary's, you get a mixed crowd,'' said Climo, who runs the one-man operation at the Natick brewery. "Some come because the name is synonymous with the food, and some come for the beer. Hopefully, there's a tradeoff.''

Owner Kevin Gill is currently working on licensing in order to legally ship beer from Natick and serve it at his three other eateries.

"I'm driven to make sure I can sell it to our other restaurants,'' said Gill, 39, who used his father's first name and mother's maiden name to come up with Owen O'Leary's. "It improves your image. Plus, our Southboro location sold the most (local) microbrew last year, so we felt this was a right concept. The trends show that there is a lot of microbrew activity in this area.''

Gill is quick to add that food makes up 62 percent of the business at Owen O'Leary's in Natick.

"We serve the freshest and best food available,'' said Gill. "Now, you can complement that with fresh beer.''