Yankee Brew News Archive

What's Brewing: New Hampshire

Originally Published: 10/97

By: Dave Weisberg

What better time of the year than the fall to be sampling New Hampshire's great craft brewed beers. It's getting just cold enough to warrant drinking slightly higher alcoholic beers. As if we needed an excuse.

During this 'leaf peeping' and 'start of winter' season you can find some interesting seasonal treats. Now's the time when we are offered a wide selection of Oktoberfest beers at the supermarket, breweries, brewpubs and brew festivals.

Richard Young, brewer at Castle Springs Brewery of Moultonborough, has geared up this fall to produce an Oktoberfest beer called Lucknow Reserve Autumnfest. Though he's making no promises, they hope to have some available to local draft accounts and some may even be bottled. "This beer will be on the upper-end of the Oktoberfest scale," says Young. "Traditionally brewed as a lager, it will be big and malty with an amber color."

If you're not doing anything on October 4 (between 11 a.m. - 6 p.m.) you might want to grab your lederhosen and head up North for their German Oktoberfest complete with German music, food, dancing and (yes, of course) bier. Available at the Oktoberfest will be their Munich Lager, IPA, Porter, American Wheat, along with Castle Springs latest--the new Lucknow Reserve Autumnfest. For directions and information on tours call 603-476-8844.

Elm City Brewing Company in Keene will be offering German food on their menu for two weeks in October to be served along with their annual Oktoberfest brew. "Last year we ran out of the Oktoberfest beer in one week, so I hope to brew twice the amount this year," says Tony Poanessa, brewmaster at Elm City. "The profile is a traditional German Oktoberfest beer with a nutty character." Pending approval, Poanessa says, they'll host their first outside 3-day German Beer & Food Festival during one weekend in October. They'll have an outdoor tent for at least 60 people right outside the brewpub and hope to have some German entertainment.

In November, look for Elm City's first Pumpkin Ale to debut during Keene's famous record-setting Pumpkin Festival. Poanessa will be creating a different kind of Christmas Ale this year. "Instead of the typical holiday spiced ale, I'm working on some type of a strong ale," says Poanessa. For more information about the German Beer and Food Festival call 603-355-3335.

New Hampshire's newest microbrewery, Franconia Notch Brewing in Littleton, is now in full-swing production according to John Wolfenberger, brewer/owner. A little more than a year old, they've been brewing since February and are starting to make a name for themselves. This past July at the Gunstock Brew Fest their flagship beer, Grail Pale Ale, won the People's Choice award. The award was determined by hundreds of attendees from a field of more than 40 beers, including every New Hampshire microbrewery, major regionals and national microbrews. Not too bad for right out of the starting gate, guys!

Franconia Notch Brewing was started by two homebrewing friends who decided to create a totally handmade brewery. "During tours a few people would ask 'What the heck is that thing in the corner?'" says Wolfenberger, referring to his homemade keg washer. "It took me all day to fabricate and only 35 bucks worth of materials. But it works!"

The main thing which sets their beers apart from other microbrewers is the fact they do not filter their beer. "We never filter out the protein and vitamins, or destroy them by pasteurizing," says Wolfenberger. Their beers are mainly kegged and available locally and at their brewery. Their two flagship beers, Grail Pale Ale ("brewed at a higher than normal gravity of 1.058 and highly hopped") and River Driver Ale ("a smooth and malty amber ale") are available year round. Their upcoming seasonal will be a strong ale. Wolfenberger hopes to be bottling their beer later this year. For information call 603-444-6258.

Wayne Morello, one of the owners of the Italian Oasis & Brewery in Littleton reported the recent homwww.ebrew.competition they sponsored was a big success. "In the first year we had 50 participants, then 75 the next year, and this past July we had more than 150 people participate," says Morello. "We've found there's a lot of homebrewers in this part of New Hampshire and because of the interest we'll probably have to move the competition to a bigger venue." The winner brewed his winning recipe for an ESB with brewer John Morello this past summer.

No details yet on their new mug club, but it will be in full swing by October. Also, look for their annual Oktoberfest beer to be on tap in October. For details on their mug club or next year's homwww.ebrew.competition call 603-444-6995.

Brett Marcy, brewer at Martha's Exchange in Nashua, has been busy creating new offerings at this popular Nashua brewpub. Marcy's ambitious goal is to have all five taps filled with only German beers--a true smorgasbord of biers--during the last two weeks of September and into October. Potential, and definite German beer styles Marcy will shoot for include: Kolsch, Alt, Dunkelweizen, Weizenbock, Rauchbier (an unfiltered lager brewed with a smoky flavor--yes smoke in this case is good), Schwartz beer (also unfiltered), and/or traditional Oktoberfest beer. A big 'Prosit!' to Marcy if he pulls this off.

Every Tuesday during the month of October Martha's will offer German food and from 8-10 p.m. they'll have a traditional German Oompah band playing. If you've never heard a live German Oompah band you should check this out. They're usually loud, always fun and very German!

Another newcomer to the Granite State microbrewery scene, New Hampshire Custom Brewers of Manchester is still cranking out their flagship beer Loon Pale Ale. However, head brewer, Jon Thomas hopes to have their second beer, Loon Special Ale an ESB, on the beer shelves of New Hampshire soon. "We'll be using more crystal malt to add body, and we'll increase the hop bitterness and hop aroma as compared to our Loon Pale Ale," says Thomas. It should be available by November. Residents of Vermont and Massachusetts may see New Hampshire Custom Brewers beer in their states in the near future too.

Nutfield Brewing Company in Derry has been busy getting ready to release one of their fall beers. "For the second year we'll be offering our Harvest Ale, an Oktoberfest style beer which was very popular last year," says owner Jim Killeen.

And Nutfield is at it again, getting into yet another ambitious business venture. Plans are underway to establish an 'ale house' right at the brewery which will host guest New Hampshire beers on tap, plus Nutfield's offerings. According to Killeen, the ale house will be "big on the beer and light on the food."

Speaking as the vice president for the newly formed New Hampshire Craft Brewers Association (NHCBA), Killeen says the first 'Brewed and Baked in the Granite State' festival, held at Nutfield Brewery this past July was a major success. "Besides raising $5,000 for the New Hampshire Food Bank, the festival also helped promote craft breweries in New Hampshire. Fourteen of the 15 New Hampshire breweries were at the festival." And it was a beer-history making event too.

On July 1st, a New Hampshire brewfest law was made live. This law enables brewpubs not registered for beer distribution, to obtain a 1-, 2-, or 3-day permit to serve their beer at New Hampshire beer festivals. At this particular brewfest, it was the first time that brewpubs like Elm City Brewing Company and Martha's Exchange could actually serve beer at a festival in their own state. "Brew free or die"--keep up the good work NHCBA!

Portsmouth Pub & Brewery in Portsmouth has been offering a special treat to customers on Tuesday nights. Sean Navish, brewmaster, features a different cask-conditioned beer "in the wood" every Tuesday. They literally put the cask up on the bar and then use gravity to dispense the beer. It's tapped and gone the same day. So if you've never had cask conditioned ale, better get there on Tuesdays. But get there early.

Starting in October they'll be offering their regular beers, on a rotating basis, for sale right at the brewery in 22-ounce bottles.

Seven Barrel Brewery in West Lebanon aims at having on tap at their brewpub five regular beers and three 'specials' throughout the year. According to brewer Paul White, this fall the special beers will be Fest Beer, Wolf's Roads Pilsner and Half-Wit (sister beer to Dim-Wit served at the Vermont Pub and Brewery in Burlington, Vermont., also owned by Greg and Nancy Noonan).

Besides adding a few new food items to their menu they've also completely changed the menu's format. Nancy Noonan says this new menu offers an interesting twist. "We created the new menu in a newspaper format which includes facts on beer history, a beer lover's calendar, BAC level charts, and brewing tips," says Noonan.

Peter Egleston, owner of Smuttynose Brewery in Portsmouth has been busy working on getting his product exported into Great Britain. Why you ask would a Brit want to buy beer from an American microbrewery? Besides being a tasty brew, there's also a mystique about something that's imported. (Remember those days when we thought Lowenbrau was top-notch beer! I do.)

"In England, there's already a growing interest in California wines," says Egleston. "Even though they have great French wines close by, the Brits sometimes prefer California wines." Smuttynose will be one of a group of microbreweries to be exported together, including Ipswich, Spring Street, Saranac, Shipyard, and Neptune. Smuttynose sent 208 cases of their Schultz Pale Ale back in August. So next time you're in England, ask for a Smuttynose.

Sean Dougherty, head brewer at Stone Coast Brewing at Winnepesaukee, in Laconia, is considering adding an Oktoberfest style beer to their line-up in October. But he will definitely brew a barley wine in late November. This beer will be high on the hops since Dougherty is a self-proclaimed hophead. "It'll be lighter in color and may even use some maple syrup as an adjunct," says Dougherty.

Their flagship beer, 420 IPA, is always on tap, but they also have available seasonally: Waterfront Wheat ("a light crisp refreshing wheat"), Gunstock Alt (a traditional alt fermented warm, but aged cold), Red Stone Red Ale (malty, hoppy), Peak's Pale Ale (a classic pale ale), and Blackbear Porter (robust with coffee tones).

Stark Mill Brewery, in Manchester, is getting geared up for their second annual Fall Brewer's Festival to be held on Columbus Day Weekend on October 12 outside the brewpub. According to J.B. Smith, brewer, they had 13 breweries last year. "We hope to have up to 25 breweries participating from Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Vermont this year," says Smith. Tickets for $10 include an 8 ounce tasting glass, plus four tasting tickets. Food is pay as you go. For information on the Brewer's Festival call 603-622-0000.

Their Fall Oktoberfest Foliage Ale will be on tap in October. This medium body Vienna style beer will be well-hopped with traditional noble hops; O.G.: 1056. Be on the lookout throughout the state for 6-packs of Millie's Oatmeal Stout and Amoskeag Ale. Smith's goal is to also have their Thanksgiving Holiday traditional brown ale with holiday spices added. This beer will be bottled in time for Thanksgiving and may even be bottled by October.

Butch Chase, head brewer at Woodstock Inn and Brewpub in North Woodstock will have their Scottish Clan Style Scotch Ale ready in time for the famous annual Highland games which comes to their area with more than 20,000 kilted Scots ready to throw a few cabers and toss back a few pints! Also on tap this fall will be their Autumn Ale, a light brown ale made with 150 pounds of New Hampshire apples.

Don't miss out on their Brewer's Weekends where guests stay through the weekend and learn the ancient art of brewing. It starts off with a Friday night social, then you rise early for the 7 a.m. brewday (for those who make it up in time). All meals and beers are included for the weekend of fun and brewing. For information about their Brewer's Weekends call 603-745-3951.

The Flying Goose Brewpub and Four Corners Restaurant will be offering customers up to 17 of their brewed-on-premise beers and sodas later this year. As of August they had 14 selections including a homemade root beer and a diet root beer. By November, Scott Brown, brewer, will be adding three new beers. He hopes to add a Russian Imperial Stout, a Smoked Ale, and a heavily hopped beer (with six different hop additions "with nothing but hops," says Brown).

Brown has been brewing to capacity on his 7-barrel system to keep up with the demand of having all their selections available on tap all the time. Repeat--all the time. That's an amazing feat knowing that since all their beers are unfiltered, they need a 28-day brewing cycle for the beer to clear before serving.

For people in the area, you can find two of their beers--Flying Goose Number 8 and Perley Town IPA--distributed in growlers at local beer stores and supermarkets. According to Brown their Flying Goose Number 8 is a light beer using 30% wheat and a "twang" of apricot oil to the point most people don't know it's there. "It's very subtle," says Brown. "I usually recommend this beer to people who don't like beer." Perley Town IPA is named after a now defunct old settlement in New London. For directions to Flying Goose Brewpub call 603-526-6899.

Photo caption:

Nutfield Brewing Company president Jim Killeen presents Al Tremblay of the New Hampshire Food Bank with a check representing the over $5,000 raised at the recent beer and food festival held at the brewery.